Finger Lakes Trail in February

The Finger Lakes Trail, in the western Catskills, easily flows in companionship with the waters of the Cannonsville Reservoir in Delaware County.

As hiking trails go, the Finger Lakes Trail in the western Catskills is VERY well marked.

In late February, the still water near the intersection of state Routes 268 and 10, known to old-timers as Apex, makes for an inviting, moderate hike.
Apex, once a bustling hamlet, supported in part by the O & W Railroad in the town of Tompkins, disappeared with the demise of the rail road.
It was the site of the Delaware County's first acid factory, built in 1876. Quarrying and lumbering gave rise to Apex, and when nearby hillsides were denuded of their timber, industry faltered.
In the early 1960s, the construction of the Cannonsville Reservoir did away with neighboring hamlets like Granton, Rock Rift, Rock Royal and Cannonsville - their remnants now lie beneath the waters of the reservoir.
The Finger Lakes Trail parallels the reservoir, snaking through enchanted forests of managed Hemlock, Spruce, Birch, Oak, Beech and Maple stands. 
Hiking the trail with a dog is well-advised. My hiking partner, Nancy-from-Cadosia, and I, encountered several areas where a bear had recently awaken from its winter slumber and left a tell-tale paw-printed path that led, presumably, to a den.

I was definitely over-dressed for a late February hike in the unusual, but becoming-more-common, warm weather in February in southwestern Delaware County, NY.

Though we didn't actually spot wild life, other than early season songbirds, rabbit tracks, mole tunnels, coyote prints and deer runs were also visible in the melting snow on the 58-degree day.
Somewhere along the trail, before it merges to become the Rock Rift Rail Trail, there is either a tunnel or a blasted rock site that remains as a reminder of long-ago locomotive action.
We didn't make it there this time, but will when we next hike, giving ourselves more time for a leisurely exploration of life and the trail.

As usual, the trail was showing us some love.

*Between hikes, Lillian Browne writes about the environment, politics, crime and business in Delaware County. She is a NYS licensed outdoor adventure guide exploring the world around her, one step at a time, with her dog - Charlie

On Thin Ice: How A Winter See-Scape Healed a Childhood Trauma

January in the Catskills has proven itself, once again, the creator of mystical and magical see-scapes. 

Frozen cascading waterfalls simultaneously resemble Rubanesque figures leisurely lounging beside hungry, angular runway models who are peering beyond a veil of time. 

Ice has an amazing way of cusping a two-form existence - solid and liquid. It seems to be one thing, but is really another, depending on perspective.

Charlie and I were en-route for Saturday morning tasks and chores when I caught a glimpse of Tub Mill Falls, showing off - set back not even 100-feet from state Route 206, just north of of the tiny hamlet of Downsville. A mini-ice-capade nestled between sliced shale.

Ever eager to get the perfect photo, I tried many different angles stream side - kneeling, squatting, angled up and down, but none seemed to capture the essence of what I was feeling. I tentatively tested the ice against my 160-pounds, creeping, weight-bearing forward, while carefully balancing for an easy backward dash.

A trickle of icy water, unseen beneath crusty snow, slickened my step and was enough to send me unexpectedly, forcefully, full-weight forward through the ice. 

This is not the first time this happened to me. At the tender-age of 12, my older sister and my then-best friend, were walking to a relative's home to borrow ice skates when I spied a frozen pond. I was easily 50-feet ahead of them, anxious to retrieve the ice skates, when I spied what I now know to be a catch-basin, flood control pond. 

I approached the edge, which in similar fashion to the mini-ice-capade waterfall, was slick from sunshine and slight-melt. I slipped, skidded and sailed to the middle of the pond before the ice gave way ... and the gravitational pull of the underground, underwater drainage culvert sucked my body back to the edge of the pond .... beneath the several-inch thick ice.

I was trapped beneath the ice. Thirty-six years later, I remembered the moment like it was yesterday. I didn't panic - I still don't in moments of crisis. I just remember banging on the ice, from beneath it, trying to break it, with my skinny, little, ineffective fist ... and that's it.

What happened next was told to me by my sister and friend. They were at least a "few" minutes behind me in stride, leisurely walking and talking. When they got to the pond, though they didn't see me ... they saw my red knit hat (my mother made it for me) sitting on the ice in the middle of the pond.  It either got caught on the edge of the ice or was pulled off by the force from which I fell through the ice.  Either way, it was enough for them to linger another second to see my wet hair pop through the broken ice.

In a heroic rescue, the friend held my sister's 13-year old feet as she lay across the ice to pull me out of the pond.  They figure I was in the water at least 10 minutes, if not longer.

We never did get those ice skates. And I never ventured near ice, or swam with my head under water, from that moment on. 

Up to my waist, because of the way I fell, beneath the ice below Tub Mill Falls, I reacted in almost the exact same way, I did when I was 12. I did not panic. Whether a trick of the mind or one's ability to tap into a higher-power that has your back, time seemed to slow down. 

I felt the water fill my left hiking boot first. I felt its biting coldness grab my ankle. It felt as though my boot was cementing to the stream's bed. And then -  I was crawling to safety. Soaking wet from the waist down. It was eight degrees.

I never made it to the bank yesterday. Charlie and I didn't hike. Instead, he lay at my feet (which were wrapped in a heating pad beneath a down comforter) the entire day. He looked up at me every few minutes, with those acrobatic eyebrows of his (that make him look more human than canine!) which seemed to say ... be careful ... err on the side of caution and stay away from ice of any measure, especially when you are alone.

And in a way that is incredibly empowering, I've reflected on yesterday's events and the larger lesson. This time, I didn't need rescuing. This time, I rescued myself.

I survived.

The end.

*Between hikes, Lillian Browne writes about the environment, politics, crime and business in Delaware County. She is a NYS licensed outdoor adventure guide exploring the world around her, one step at a time, with her dog - Charlie

Ticked Off!

The 2017 hiking season ( the ENTIRE year) proved to be challenging if one was exploring with the hope of avoiding ticks.
The creepiest of  body-burrowing bugs, ticks, are not easy to kill. They have no known natural predators and have cold-insulating, life-protection tricks that would leave David Copperfield in awe.
They are wily. They can seemingly parachute from the towering heights of hillside trees, hitch-hike on dandelion seed or catch a ride across an overgrown pasture on a mouse's tail.

That's how I discovered my first burrowed tick of the year ... in January, in the Catskills, on a warm 50-degree day following a week of sub-zero temperatures.
Basking in the sun-filled warmth of a late-morning hike, it was only in passing that I gave my attention to a wayward briar .. easily two years old by the way it grabbed and gripped my leggings. The one thought that crossed my mind was "I wonder if that was a tick-pricker?" I immediately and foolishly dismissed the thought. It was, after all, the end of January in the Catskills and we were still on the dark-side of winter's hold. 
How wrong I was!
Ticks acclimate. Those sons-of-blood-sucking-guns move water out of their cells before a freeze can rupture them.
They use things like leaf litter and snow to insulate themselves. The nerve!
Despite my long pants, tucked-in-t-shirt and layered long-sleeve shirt and vest, an opportunistic tick swabbed my stomach with its built in anesthesia and burrowed into the sensitive skin on my belly.
I didn't follow my own rule of immediately disrobing and showering following a hike, because it was winter - January in the Catskills. 
I figure that little bugger got a three-hour long meal before I noticed it. 
Sadly, I was afraid to smush it -  and it felt cruel to burn it. Instead, after pulling it out, I counted body parts, multiple legs, and head - just to ensure a piece of it was not still munching away on my insides - and washed it, with hot water and a splash of Clorox, down my sink.
Knowing a tick's resiliency, I'm almost certain it will ride the wave of a municipal sewer into the mighty West Branch of the Delaware River.

*Between hikes, Lillian Browne writes about the environment, politics, crime and business in Delaware County. She is a NYS licensed outdoor adventure guide exploring the world around her, one step at a time, with her dog - Charlie

Two-Season Merge

In the same way that an intense dream is nearly indistinguishable from reality upon waking, the Catskills have merged the essence of before and now - or now and not yet. Autumn and winter or winter and spring.

Is it autumn and winter? Or winter and spring?

It's hard to tell lately exactly which season it is. Is it winter? spring? fall?
There is snow and ice, emblematic of a Catskills winter. Yet the climbing temperatures every other week accompanied by rain seem determined to announce an early spring.

This magical looking tree can be found at The West Branch Preserve in Hamden. It has withstood  many cyclical weather changes and is a thing of childhood dreams.

The seemingly wild fluctuation is nothing new - the Catskills have been experiencing this flip-flop pattern for the past several years. 
Fal-inter or wint-ring are the new normal.  And there is nothing new under the stars - weather patterns are cyclical. 

Is it fal-inter? Or is it wint-ring?  

We will have another "big snow" event before the next solstice. We will also have another 50-degree day before ... and after that.

"It is not the most intellectual of the species that survives; it is not the strongest that survives; but the species that survives is the one that is able best to adapt and adjust to the changing environment in which it finds itself." ~ Charles Darwin

Choose ...

#embracechange

*Between hikes, Lillian Browne writes about the environment, politics, crime and business in Delaware County. She is a NYS licensed outdoor adventure guide exploring the world around her, one step at a time, with her dog - Charlie

Ready ... Set ... FLOW!

Chilly does not begin to describe Catskills' weather in mid-January. Sub-zero night time temperatures  have caused ice jams in most larger bodies of slow-moving water.  Still water transformed into hard water weeks ago. While ice-fishing enthusiasts are thrilled with the conditions, dog-accompanied hikers are not. 

The West Branch of the Delaware River in Walton.

Even the most weather-resistant dogs can not withstand the bitter winds - not to mention the frozen paws.

With the slightest sign of hiking-conducive weather (sunshine, temps above zero and no wind) we hit the trail.

The 20-minute mark arrived with Charlie Browne limping - not a good sign. The paw wax did little to protect him from the biting cold. 

Yesterday, a mid-season thaw began - evidenced by floating puzzle piece ice on the West Branch of the Delaware River.

This weekend temperatures will climb into the 40s. We are now seasoned by Old Man Winter and will shed our "big" coats, and instead don hoodies and sweaters. 

That's how we do winter in the Catskills.

*Between hikes, Lillian Browne writes about the environment, politics, crime and business in Delaware County. She is a NYS licensed outdoor adventure guide exploring the world around her, one step at a time, with her dog - Charlie.

Breaking Trail

When 10 degrees feels warm - you know you are in the western Catskills in January. 

It has been brutally cold this past week and between frozen water pipes, blizzard conditions and work that waits for no weather, hiking has been non-existent. 

Today, Charlie Browne and I changed that. 

We chose a trail that is unbroken - no footsteps to follow. Except ... Charlie and I have been here before. In this place, on this path - metaphorically and literally speaking.

We offer some advice ...

and above all ...

*Between hikes, Lillian Browne writes about the environment, politics, crime and business in Delaware County. She is a NYS licensed outdoor adventure guide exploring the world around her, one step at a time, with her dog - Charlie.

Relearn, Receive, Respond, Repeat

The New Year came on strong - with a ferocity that literally stopped the northeast, Catskills included, in its tracks.

The path of a young bear

Air temperatures of -16 heralded the first week of 2018.

We started 'spinning our wheels' and decided to stop and reassess 

The old way of doing things - taking the same route, making the same choices, following the same routine - no longer served us.

Bubbling beneath the surface

Charlie Browne and I put on our micro-spikes (he's always wearing his) and decided to blaze a new path. 

In all situations, there are three choices: fight, flee, freeze. The deadliest choice, always, is to freeze. 

Know your limits - and challenge them.

#blazeanewpath

*Between hikes, Lillian Browne writes about the environment, politics, crime and business in Delaware County. She is a NYS licensed outdoor adventure guide exploring the world around her, one step at a time, with her dog - Charlie.