Reflections on Autumn in the Catskills

Warm autumn colors have long left the Catskills and have been replaced with a brown, crunchy, naked terrain that nearly demands a late morning or late afternoon hike.

Landmarks unseen throughout summer's lush landscape now include intricate stone walls which serpentine long-forgotten property lines and still water hideaways that mirror undressed timbers in a sapphire sky.
Shadow play is irresistible as Father Time now gives the east coast and early start and finish time turning an April evening into a November early-afternoon.
The few aboriginal apples to have matured and made their way to the ground, make a fetch-feast for a feisty Labrador Retretiever during an afternoon romp.

Rochester Hollow, step into the past

For those who like a bit of history with their hike, Rochester Hollow, in the Pine Hill Wild Forest in the town of Shandaken in Ulster County, fits the bill.
The 5.6 mile trail offers an elevation gain of just under 900-feet as it traverses a landscape dotted with stone walls as well as foundation remains and the remnants of toll-gates.

A longtime friend suggested a hike on the Delaware-Ulster county border, without a specific trail in mind. We settled on Rochester Hollow after passing its access - Matyas Road off state Route 28.
There is ample parking at the trail head which can easily hold 10 vehicles, for this easy-moderate hike that has little appeal for hardcore purists who like a challenge.

The trail is an old toll-road which parallels a mountain stream that held scant water during the first week of October.
The trail travels easily through heavily canopied hardwoods where stark white birch trees slice the evergreen backdrop of hemlocks and spruce.
Because the trail snuggles Rose Mountain, the birches are protected from the elements and displayed nearly no sign of autumn's touch in their green, toothed leaves; a contrast to the showy red Maple leaves and fluorescent yellow of fallen Oak leaves. The flashy fallen foliage is nestled between stinging nettle in carpet-like fashion along the first mile of trail.

The small mountain stream cascades continuously and is a conduit for nature to provide poison and
anecdote side-by-side - Jewel Weed can be found close by.
A trail highlight is a monument honoring the memory of famed Catskill naturalist, environmentalist and writer - Roxbury native John Burroughs.

" Their history is of heroic cast. Ravished and torn by the tanner in his thirst for bark, preyed upon by the lumberman, assaulted and beaten back by the settler, still their spirit has never been broken, their energies never paralyzed."- John Burroughs - from his essay 'In the Hemlocks.'
There are two spurs off the main trail - the yellow Burroughs Memorial Trail, accessed before the monument;

 and the red Eignor Trail which loops around fences, partially-buried and still-standing foundations, all made of stone.
Either, or both trails make for a spectacular fall walk in in the woods.

*Between hikes, Lillian Browne writes about the environment, politics and crime in Delaware County. She is exploring the world around her, one step at a time, with her dog - Charlie. Follow her on Instagram @lillian.browne, on Twitter @browneinwalton or on Facebook.

Reflecting on Bear Spring Mountain, Delaware County

The western Catskills are decked out in brilliant fall finery right now, which turns an average hike into a visual celebration.

Particularly stunning are views along ridges and from peaks, where a patchwork

of contrasting colors quilt the landscape, clamoring and competing to be seen. 

But sometimes, climbs to those places are impractical, if not impossible, because of physical conditioning or time constraints.

Bear Spring Mountain, a state managed wildlife preserve, is my go-to place when I am short on time since it is located only five-miles from my home.

Over the past two days, I've accessed the mountain via the intersection of trail #2 and #12 at Middle Pond, off West Trout Brook Road - known by longtime residents as Shinhopple Brook Road.

From there, a short but quasi-strenuous-from-quick-elevation-gain hike can be had by heading straight up trail #2.

One way that I have been able to enjoy autumn's offerings, without much exertion, is by sticking close to the three different bodies of water located within proximity of the trail head.

Middle Pond showcases its surrounds with reflection.
Because the pond drains over a man-made retaining wall, a waterfall can be found on it's southwestern side, just the other side a recently rehabbed wooden bridge.

At different times of the year, recreationists of a varying sort - anglers, hunters, equestrians and snowmobilers, use Middle Pond as a meeting point. Its a great place to stop and reflect.

Hunters and Hikers - enough room for both?

Small game hunting season is about to begin in Delaware County, New York and with early bear season already underway,  forested lands, public and private, are about to get very busy.

Hikers, who have been sporadically visiting the trails are finally gearing up for both leisurely and hardcore trekking now that the heat and humidity have left the air, taking all of those no-see-um and other pesky, biting bugs with them.
The two nature loving groups are about to converge. It can be a scary time for hikers, and hunters alike, with so many people in the woods, eager to harvest a trophy and some wild game.
New York forest rangers are also about to get busy making sure that everyone stays safe. They are also making certain that our public lands are protected.
Ranger Jason Seeley, assigned to Department of Environmental Conservation's Region 4, which includes Delaware County, reminds hunters and hikers alike that each has equal rights on public land during hunting season.

Sign in at all trail heads on public property. It will

help officials find you if you become lost or get hurt.

Some common sense ways to stay safe, he suggests, are to wear blaze orange when in the woods no matter which group you belong to.
If hiking - stick to the trail. If a hunter - positively identify your quarry before pulling the trigger or releasing an arrow.
Both groups of public land users should always sign in at trail heads which helps officials to determine how much public land is being used, which in turn dictates funding, and it also provides search and rescue teams a last known location, in the event you get lost or hurt while in the woods.
Seeley is stealthy. He knows the landscape of Bear Spring Mountain's 7,000 acres (where I bumped into him) like the back of his hand, and you will not see or hear him approach, unless he wants you to. So, if hunting, make certain you have your tags and your license on your person.
If you are traveling with your canine companion, they must be licensed.

Bird dogs and those on the scent of small game are permitted to be off-leash, but all dogs must be under control.

Ranger Seeley caught me with Charlie Browne

off-leash, however, when I demonstrated

the I had control, he opted not to write me

a violation ticket.

As an avid hiker, I take a short hiatus from hiking during the first two weeks big game season. Not only do I think it's fair to give hunters a wide berth - after all they only get a few weeks per year, I get the entire year - I'll be with the sportsmen and women in the woods curating photos and stories for writing assignments.

*Between hikes, Lillian Browne writes about the environment, politics and crime in Delaware County. She is exploring the world around her, one step at a time, with her dog - Charlie. Follow her on Instagram @lillian.browne, on Twitter @browneinwalton or on Facebook.

Mount Utsayantha - a tongue-twisting view

The only thing more fun than gazing from the fire tower atop Mount Utsayantha, is saying it's name. Pronounced ooh-sigh-on-tha, the mountain peaks at 3,214 feet. It gets its name from the legend of a Native American woman, who was said to have drowned herself after her father killed her newborn baby and the baby's father - a white settler. The woman's father, bereaved, retrieved her body and buried it, the legend goes, on the mountain. There is a memorial site, plaque and stones, located 3/4 of the way to the peak.

This gem is located in extreme northern Delaware County, just outside the small village of Stamford. Getting there is a cinch, as a resurfaced and well-maintained dirt road leads to the property which is maintained by the municipality. There are several communication towers positioned adjacent to the fire tower.

No matter the day, the climb to the viewing platform in the fire tower will provide access to spectacular views at a temperature that is several degrees lower than on the ground.

If you visit on a day like I did, you'll fight the wind to stay upright while climbing. My hat sailed away twice and I finally gave in and stuffed it into my backpack.

This outing took place the first weekend in September and was more of a sight-seeing trip than hiking. If desired, and up for a 700 foot gain challenge, one can hike the 1.5 miles from the pull-off at the bottom of Tower Road. The remains of a hand-gliding take-off ramp near the educational building are the makings of a neat photo opportunity.

Fun fact: There is thermal and ridge soaring here and the air-space is managed by UFO (Utsayantha Flying Org) a parasailing and hand-gliding organization.

*Between hikes, Lillian Browne writes about the environment, politics and crime in Delaware County. She is exploring the world around her, one step at a time, with her dog - Charlie. Follow her on Instagram @lillian.browne, on Twitter @browneinwalton or on Facebook.

Vroman's Nose - a precarious precipice

The expanse of views from Vroman's Nose in Middleburgh, in Schoharie County, left me breathless in mid-September. In part, because I've started a new job, several new writing projects, welcomed my first grandchild into the world, have done some legal hand-holding for my middle daughter who was in a horrific car accident and because I've not made time to go for a "real" hike in the past two months.
As hikes go, Vroman's Nose is not difficult. The trails are extremely well maintained, easily accessed off Mill Valley Road via state Route 30, with plenty of signage; and once on your way, a rainbow of blazes to lead the way.

The hike was not pre-planned. I only ended up there because I agreed to take a surprise day trip to an unknown location for an unknown purpose a week before in the spirit of being an adventuress. The surprise trip was to the Adirondacks where I was to be gifted with a 13-pound Kevlar canoe after test-paddling on Lake Sacandaga. Having never paddled still water, always opting for rivers instead, I became so sea-sick, I nearly crawled out of the lake. 

The two and a half hour drive back to southern Delaware County, was a bummer - until my decision to take Route 30 to Route 10.
I'd never driven Route 10 past Stamford and though I was both headachey and nauseated from the canoe, I began to feel much better meandering through towns with names like Breakabeen, where all-things-ag are still a way of life.
I am a lover of water and I couldn't help but to wonder what the name of the stream was that ran alongside Route 30. I began to see signs for Gilboa, which made me think of reservoirs, which made me think of the Schoharie Creek, which made me think of pulling over to look up directions for the Gilboa Dam. I discovered I was in Middleburgh and a near-by attraction - Vroman's Nose - announced itself on google. How could I resist a hike on a nose?

The table-top is chiseled by glaciers and by visitors wanting to leave their mark.

The trail to the cliff-face includes passage along The Long Path, another hike I've been meaning to take. Not knowing what to expect I glanced at the map while at the trail head and unwittingly choose the steepest climb up.
Though the loop is not long, only 1.5 miles, there is a 700-foot elevation gain in 3/4 of a mile, which reminded me that I hadn't been hiking lately.

I was well-rewarded for the effort and am reminded once again that traveling without a map and not knowing where you are going, can be full of surprises.

*Between hikes, Lillian Browne writes about the environment, politics and crime in Delaware County. She is exploring the world around her, one step at a time, with her dog - Charlie. Follow her on Instagram @lillian.browne, on Twitter @browneinwalton or on Facebook.

Cresting the Ridge - Bear Spring Mountain, Trail No. 5 - Meditation Rock

The 7,000 acre New York State Department of Environmental Conservation wildlife management area that composes Bear Spring Mountain is flush with opportunities for hiking.

A short, easy hike is Trail No. 5, Fork Mountain Trail, located approximately 1/2 mile off West Trout Brook Road, accessed by state Route 206 via Beers Brook Road.

The trail is one of only two throughout the mountain that were mowed by state employees earlier in the season, which makes it one of the few that are accessible without much effort.
The gently rolling 1.28 mile hike to Meditation Rock carries hikers through mature hardwood and evergreen forest land along the ridge of the mountain.

Trekking the peak provides valley views which vary seasonally.

During late summer, the trails and adjacent tree-lines are overflowing with wildflowers, wild edibles and mushrooms.

St. John's Wort

July's end provides hikers with remnants of juicy raspberries as August promises an overabundance of blackberries trail-side.
An early morning hike gave way to carpets of healing St. John's Wort, sour Wood Sorrel, yarrow and a surprising Amanita Muscaria subspecies mushroom, as well as a variety of unidentified but interesting carnation-like ruffled-edge mushrooms.

Amanita Muscaria subspecies

Approximately 1/2 mile along the trail there is a large rock, flush with the ground, mostly covered by moss and lichen that sports a graffitied smiling sun. Rather than remove the marking, which has been there for at least the past 10-years, I use it as a visual marker, and prefer to think of it as a hippy hyroglyph.

Mediation Rock is hidden from view by blackberry brambles from the trail during late summer, but marking mileage via a pedometer or with GPS coordinates

GPS coordinates for Meditation Rock

can help to easily locate the jutting boulder that makes for easy viewing of the valley, or a nice place to sit, snack or meditate.

Bob and Maxine Locherer of Walton are frequent visitors to Bear Spring Mountain.

Trail head parking, near the sign-in sheet, can easily accommodate a half-dozen vehicles.

* Lillian Browne is exploring the world around her, one step at a time, with her dog - Charlie. Follow her on Instagram at lillian.browne, on Twitter @browneinwalton or on Facebook

Shavertown Trail - A Glimpse of Delaware County's History

A piece of Delaware County's history lends itself to one of the county's most spectacular views accessed from The Shavertown Trail in Andes, which overlooks the Pepacton Reservoir.

The first one-mile section of the trail, found near the intersection of state Routes 30/28 and county Route 1 also marked BWS Road, is a challenging 520 foot climb.

Trail head parking is located at the boat launch on the northeast side of the Shavertown Bridge, a short distance from the trail. The trail begins with a plank foot-bridge that spans a small gully to deliver hikers to the trail head sign-in, where primitive wooden walking sticks and/or hiking poles have been left behind.

The narrow foot path is well-worn, clearly marked and traverses a mostly-young hardwood canopy of heavy shade. As the trail climbs, so does the rockiness. However, trail maintenance crews have done a superb job of ensuring mostly easy footing by placing larger flat rocks and an occasional plank atop seasonally muddy spots. Watch out, though, there is the sporadic sapling that has been cut two or three inches above ground that can provide a tripping hazard.

In addition to wildlife - a red fox was spotted crossing the main road en-route to the trail and toads, birds and butterflies were present along the trail. A wide-variety of mushrooms were also spotted.

The trail sharply turns upon intersection with an old logging road just past the half-way point of the first section of trail.  The logging road soon becomes mostly grassy and is cut in a swath through a wildflower meadow flush with goldenrod, queen anne's lace, yarrow, chickory and a variant of wild astilbe.

Near the crest of the grassy knoll, the New York City Department of Environmental Protection, which has partnered with the Catskill Mountain Club to construct the trail, maintains a weather station. The weather data collection system records temperatures, precipitation, humidity and wind speeds and transmits the information via solar-powered means to a central location for record keeping and forecasts.

It is near the weather station that dragon- and damsel-flies begin flitting about heralding Snake Pond a couple of hundred feet away. The well-mowed trail around the pond provides access to benches crafted by the Catskill Forest Association in honor of CMC volunteer Ann Roberti, which are positioned to provide stellar views of the Pepacton Reservoir.

Below the Pepacton Reservoir lie the sites of  former towns:  Pepacton, Arena, Union Grove and, of course, Shavertown.  The building of the dam - located in Downsville, was completed in 1954 and the reservoir was filled in 1955. Approximately 954  people from the four towns were displaced by the construction of the reservoir and dam. There were 13 cemeteries between the four towns from which bodies were re-interred. Many graves were unclaimed and before flooding the reservoir, DEP re-interred those bodies at what is now known as the Pepacton Cemetery, located between Andes and Downsville on NYC Road 30a, off county Route 1; providing the former residents with a final resting place that is maintained by New York City personnel.

As one takes in the views of distant mountain tops in shades of blue, purple and green, the reservoir waters can be seen rippling from either bench-marked vantage point.

The landscape adjacent to Snake Pond is dotted with low-growing berry plants, which show off a brilliant red contrast to the earthen-hued cattails and shimmering goldenrod hugging the pond.

The hiking trail can be completed with a 1.5 mile loop which rounds Perch Lake Mountain with an additional 240 foot elevation gain. The complete trail gives hikers a 5.3 mile workout.

* Lillian Browne is exploring the world around her, one step at a time, with her dog - Charlie. Follow her on Instagram at lillian.browne, on Twitter @browneinwalton or on Facebook.